Assessment Data

Joe Wilmoth
country flag USA

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Viewing measurement system:

2023-09-13

filled in 41% (66 of 160)

Created: 2023-09-13 00:19
Modified: 2023-09-13 00:29

Basic data

Weight
125 lbs
Subjective age
18 years old
Average sleep duration
7 hours
Daily activity
High active
Training-oriented nutrition
Half of the meals
Climbing experience (excluding breaks)
1 years
Climbing-specific training
5 days/week
Volume of climbing-specific training
5 hours/week
Climbing outdoors
30 days/year
Development predisposition
Strength
Training with coach
None
Mental training/methods
None
Overall workout
6 days/week
Volume of overall workout
8 hours/week
Massage or foam rolling
None
Stretching
0.5 hours/week
Average of 3 hardest leads ONSIGHTPrimary set
OS lead level
5.10b YDS USA
Average routes length
40 ft
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Vertical
Average of 3 hardest leads REDPOINTPrimary set
RP lead level
5.13b YDS USA
Average routes length
35 ft
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Overhung
Average of 3 hardest boulders FLASHEDPrimary set
Flash boulder level
V7 USA
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Overhung
Average of 3 hardest boulders REDPOINTEDPrimary set
RP boulder level
V10 USA
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Heavy overhung / Roof

Strength / Power / Endurance

strength_fingers half crimp dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWPrimary set
45 mm edge
165 lbs
20 mm edge
135 lbs
15 mm edge
120 lbs
10 mm edge
95 lbs
strength_fingers 3 finger dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWFull set
45 mm edge
25 lbs
20 mm edge
10 lbs
15 mm edge
10 lbs
10 mm edge
10 lbs
strength_fingers minimum edge dead hang @ 4 seconds -> MEFull set
minimum edge depth
5 mm
strength_endurance_fingers continuous dead hang @ 40 - 100 seconds -> MHTPrimary set
45 mm edge
40 seconds
20 mm edge
31 seconds
15 mm edge
25 seconds
strength_arms 90° lock-off @ 10 seconds -> MAWPrimary set
both hands - easy
85 lbs
left hand - hard
10 lbs
right hand - hard
15 lbs
strength_arms 3 pull-ups -> MAWFull set
3 pull-ups
90 lbs
power_arms campus power slap -> MaxDPrimary set
left arm
135 cm
right arm
140 cm
strength_endurance_arms 90° bent arm hang -> MHTPrimary set
both hands - easy
30 seconds
left hand - hard
15 seconds
right hand - hard
20 seconds
strength_endurance_arms pull-ups -> MRPrimary set
pull-ups
30
strength_endurance_arms dips -> MRFull set
dips
10
strength_core core flexor strength -> MHTPrimary set
90° L-hang - easy
20 seconds
45° front lever - hard
10 seconds

Mobility / Flexibility

•   bends down -> MinDPrimary set
forward bend down to the toes
0 inches
left side bend down
6 inches
right side bend down
6 inches

Balance / Coordination

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Mental

I know how to manage my focus while climbing.
Sometimes
I know what can distract me while climbing (noise, sun, wind, other climbers, comments, slippery foothold or hold) and I can control it.
Always
My mind races before I pull on and during climbing or I talk to myself too much.
Never
My mind races when I approach a difficult spot or a crux.
Often
I can successfully motivate myself by encouraging myself inside my head or to myself.
Sometimes
I use my favorite "key/anchor" words f. ex. I can do it, hold it, you are strong, breathe now!
Never
When I'm climbing, I expect that I will give my best and send a route or a boulder.
Often
I enjoy taking part in competitions or climbing outside even if I fail or send the route inefficiently.
Always
Skills development is crucial or important in my climbing and I have an overall plan for my development.
Always
While climbing a project or in competitions I only think about not falling off, not losing to a rival, not being last place.
Sometimes
I know what is important and valuable to me in climbing.
Always
I have a training plan for each season.
Rarely
I decide to make difficult moves even when I'm high above the quickdraw or high on a boulder.
Rarely
I believe in my climbing capabilities and that I will achieve everything I plan.
Always
I can imagine doing my climbing task using kinesthetic sense (f.eg. load on fingers, type of friction, shoulder tension, legs tension, body position, etc.).
Always
When I choose a climbing goal I train regularly by imagining the send before my trip to the crag.
Always
I use visualization to bring about the right emotional state, relax my body, and focus before competition or important real rock projects during climbing.
Sometimes
I can imagine the entire sequence of moves or sequences in the most important places, including foot holds and holds, in their actual order.
Rarely