minimum edge dead hang @ 4 seconds -> ME
dead hang / any crimp @ 4 seconds -> minimum edge
Equipment needed: micro holds, stopwatch
Goal and measurement
The goal is to test the smallest edge you can hold with any crimp for 4 seconds. The result you record is the depth of the held edge in millimeters (mm).
Hold onto the edge with arms shoulder-width apart with any grip you like. During the test your legs hang loosely but should not swing.
Finding the smallest edge should be done with 2-4 tests separated by 3 - 5 min of active rests. After the rest you should feel reasonably recovered.