A Few Tips

Arm Span

Arm span is the distance between your middle fingertips while your arms are straight, stretched open wide to make a straight line with your shoulders, and trying to reach as far as possible in opposite directions.

"Zero waste" Form Editing

If you performed and recorded a test exercise where you had a possibility to make it easy or hard and later you have decided to change your choice - it was not a waste of effort! You can go back and enter in any and all of the data you record in the proper form as long as it represents your current abilities. More data = better analysis.

Testing Frequency

We advise you to submit a new Supreme Master Assessment after each training block, but not more than four times a year. Mental tests should not be done more than twice a year.

  Strength / Power / Endurance Mobility / Flexibility Balance / Coordination Mental
Times a year 2 - 3 2 2 1 - 2

Active Rests

Sitting on the couch will not help you recover as fast as active resting. To recover effectively you might want to use the G-Tox method. To use this technique you should raise and lower your arms every 5 - 10 seconds. During that time you can also shake out your arms.

Dead Hangs


In climbing, there are several crimp grip types that use either three or four fingers:

  • Open Hand/Open Crimp - three or four fingertips drag (depending on hand morphology)
  • Quarter Crimp - thumb locked on top of the index finger above the first knuckle with an open hand
  • Half Crimp - fingers at 90° angle
  • Full Crimp - knuckles above the plane of the edge
  • Closed Crimp - thumb locked on top of the index finger near the fingertip

In The Supreme Master Assessment you will use few of them:

  • three fingers Open Hand/Open Crimp
  • four fingers Half Crimp
  • Closed Crimp - for minimum edge test exercise (don't use it unless you are experienced)


In order to avoid injury you should perform dead hangs in the safest way possible. Don't hang loosely on your joints. Hold your shoulders low, away from ears, engage your back, and slightly bend your arms.


Use chalk to provide adequate friction. If the hangboard is old, a few passes with 120 grade sandpaper might be helpful.

Improper Edge Depths

If your hangboard's edges are too deep, you can decrease the depth by filling the end with folded paper. A bit of tape might help secure it inside. Make sure the depth is as required with a ruler or tape measure.

On The Bar


For all tests use open grip only. This is our choice for a standardized bar grip. Never use a closed grip on the bar.


You can tape the bar with textured, self-adhesive tape like medical, kinesio or finger tape. But oftentimes chalk will be enough.